January 22nd, 2015

First off I should say the baby in the cover photo is not for sale.  Secondly I should say he is not the taste of Ecuadorian Life.  I’m not going to eat a baby just for blog hits. Now onto the manner at hand.

Guamote is a place I’ve only heard whispers of.  Only an hour south of Riobamba, right beside the main road to Cuenca it’s hard to say it’s off the tourist trail, but really, much like San Rafael Falls, and Magica Falls, thousands of tourists drive by, but barely any of them stop.

That’s slowly changing now, with Inti Sisa, a wonderfully homey hostel for a good cause (All profits go to community projects like the school they run in this, Ecuador’s second poorest region)  But, as a Gringo, you still have a feeling of being an endangered species while in Guamote, and I love that feeling.  If you’re passing by Guamote on or near a Thursday, or can arrange your trip to be there then, don’t hesitate, just do it. The market which seems to octuple the population of the town is worth it, and certainly gives a look at the real Ecuadorian life without a touristy filter.

Otavalo was beautiful.  Really beautiful. but the market was very much for tourists, and as such lost a little bit of it’s charm.  Guamote had none of that, I was just observing regular life, and aside from a few curious stares and nervous smiles, I might as well not have been there.

I arrive as the sun is setting, having taken a bus for 2 hours from Banos to Riobamba, (Around 2 Dollars and departing more or less hourly) where I change buses to one heading south to Alausi, (1 dollar to Guamote) hopping off that bus in the pouring rain alongside the highway at a gas station and quickly finding a waiting truck taxi to bring me to my guesthouse and keep me as close to dry as is possible in this driving rain.

I get to Inti Sisa and am warmly welcomed and checked in by one of the kind Ecuadorian ladies who work in the kitchen.  I’m shown to a dorm that is clean to a fault and features very comfortable bunk beds, custom made for the guesthouse.  I’m lucky enough to be alone in the dorm and so get one of the double sized bottom bunks. A rare luxury for the solo traveller. (24.95  USD expensive but worth it and a good cause)

Just as predicted my sojourn in the waterfalls the day before has left me sicker than I was, so I quickly pass out for a few hours after signing up for dinner, and wake just in time to come out and enjoy what is truly a world class meal.

As I sit in the fire place warmed living rooms I meet the other travellers staying at the guesthouse, most are families or couples travelling Ecuador with a guide and Driver.  Normally I’m not a fan of such methods but perhaps there is value in it for those who can afford it as not many backpackers seem to make it to Guamote, and Guamote is awesome.

We speak more french than anything as many of the guests are from Belgium (Where the charitable foundation is based) and we get to know each other enjoying fried Quinoa balls with delicious spicy peanut sauce, then it’s time to stop talking because dinner is served.  (11 USD Expensive but again worth it.)

Warm and tasty soup starts the meal and is soon followed by delicious meatballs and vegetables and a halfway decent chocolate cake for desert.  I go to bed early with a full stomach and a smile on my face, excited for the market the following morning.

I wake up early for a 7 am breakfast (included with stay) and enjoy more delicious cooking before heading out into the streets of Guamote, the driving overnight rain has stopped and the streets are alive with people.  It seems a whole different town to the one I arrived in the previous nights, the streets are teeming with Ecuador’s indigenous people in colourful clothing all heading in one direction.

All around me market stalls are being set up.  In the city itself you’ll find the sprawling market selling just about everything you can imagine, but for a truly unique experience, follow the crowds and head out towards the cemetery, on that route you’ll find the first of two animal markets.

I arrive after a ten minute walk through a sea of smiling faces, to the first market, specializing in small animals and set up just outside the cemetery.

Some of these pictures will seem cruel, some of them perhaps are, but after an initial wave of pity for the animals I realized something. This is a way of life for these people, it is in many ways their currency, as banks are more or less non existent in Guamote.  Beyond that, most of these animals live a life of considerably more freedom than the animals we consume from factory farms, so while market days may be awful for them, who am I to pass judgement.

I enter the market and sea of people and walk around the edges finding cages with almost every small animal imaginable, Kittens, Puppies, Rabbits, Chickens, Pigeons, Ducks, and oh so many Guinea Pigs make up most of the trading going on here.   Along with two mountains of green bananas or plantains because bananas practically qualify as a meat here.

Packed cages encircle me but the real action is happening in the crowded middle, where locals carry large white sacks and haggle over animal prices, trading, buying, and carefully examining each animal for flaws or defects.  It’s pretty amazing to watch, and each time a large canvas sack is opened I do my best to peer in unobtrusively to see what it holds.  Sometimes one type of animal, others hold a veritable menagerie of small creatures.

Perhaps the most fascinating thing about this entire scene which I wander in for close to an hour before moving on is that the people do not seem to even notice me, or the two other tourists who make an appearance in my time here, they are too consumed in trading, buying and selling.  If I ask a question they answer happily with a smile on their face and greet me, but then it’s back to business.

I also realize just how much Ecuadorian kids go through and put up, they’re brought everywhere on their mother’s backs and I didn’t hear a single cry of complaint from any of them tossed in that turbulent sea of bargaining.  this one little guy was left out and alone, (Not for sale I promise)  and he was the only one who showed any hints of dissatisfaction.

 

From the small animal market I head across the street and up a little path into a parking lot where donkeys and horses are being sold.  It’s small scale but fascinating to watch the locals discuss prices, examine the creatures, often even going for a test drive of sorts before money is handed over or a trade is made.  Watching the work that goes into getting a donkey into the back of a truck turns into quite a spectacle, and is certainly not a job for one man.

I enquire with a passing local looking for the main market for bigger animals, though rally I need not have bothered as following the general flow of traffic, both car and pedestrian would have seen me there.

It’s a decent walk, maybe 25 minutes of muddy, crowded roads from the cemetery, but it’s worth it, and even before I reach the market I’m amazed at how the locals control these animals, pulling sheep, pigs, and cows of all sizes, colours, and ages, out of all manner of vehicle’s and herding or dragging them towards the muddy, foul smelling, but surprisingly organized market place.

There is a section for sheep, a section for pigs and the biggest section of them all for cows.  Now after some enquiring I got you some prices.  A medium sized pig can cost you anywhere from 50-100 dollars,  white ones cost more than black ones, and bargaining is certainly required. Now if you want, what I was firmly told was the best bull at the market (He was big!)  The asking price was 770 USD and there didn’t seem to be much wiggle room there.

I face my fears and weave my way through the crowded sea of squealing animals and bargaining humans, amazed none of the animals seem to try to bite or kick me.   The sheep are marked with coloured paint as are some of the pigs.  All around me commerce is happening and I spend a solid 90 minutes just watching exchanges happen, watching animals get hefted up and examined with calculating eyes before offers are even made.

I even manage to find some animals breaking the segregation policy, either that or these guys are the strangest sheep I’ve ever seen.

 

Some of the animals roam free, others are tied to one of many posts or fences. And of course where there’s a dollar to be made, there’s people to make it.  rope salesmen dot the outskirts of the market, calling out their wares much like the animal merchants.

 

I eventually decide it’s time to head back to my hostel.  Back at the smaller animal market I make a friend named Ricardo who follows me the whole way home.  He doesn’t say much and I’m pretty sure he’s a beggar though he never asks for anything.  I end up buying him a bottle of water and a sleeve of crackers which we share before heading back to my guesthouse for a brief rest.

Maybe half an hour later I’m headed back out through the central streets of Guamote and a must more assembled general market.  I’m headed towards the main highway looking for a bus to Alausi and the famous Devil’s nose train (25$ roundtrip).

That said the market is attraction enough and I walk by stalls selling everything imaginable.  Waterproof watches, Andean hats which tempt the hell out of me,  spices, food of all types, and so much more. I ask before I take any photos but almost everyone answers with a big smile and a “claro.” so I snap away s I find the train tracks which run through town before heading onwards to the main highway where I conveniently find a waiting bus.

About an hour later I’m dropped off on the outskirts of Alausi and follow a mix of signs and local advice to find the train station about an hour before the scheduled 3 pm departure.  (The train usually leaves at 8 am-11am- and 3 pm)

I say usually because when I get there I’m told there won’t be a three P.M. departure today as I’m the only tourist whose shown up to do it.  Sad news.  I briefly consider heading to some waterfalls about an hour outside of town, but with limited bus access and no real knowledge of how to do it I instead settle for a quick meal at a local Chifa restaurant.  (there is so much chinese Ecuadorian fusion food here it’s crazy.)

Then after wandering briefly in Alausi I climb back up to the bus stop and return to Guamote in time for another delicious dinner at Inti Sisa guesthouse.

I then spend some time reading and writing by the incredibly warm fireplace before heading to bed again,still feeling a little ways from my best.  The next morning it’s time to move on and head to Cuenca (5hours and 5 USD)  but not before Ava, one of the two foreigners I see working with Inti Sisa offers me a chance to see just what they are doing for the community.  Sorry, I didn’t have my camera with me!

We are led through a computer room (amazing facility for the kids here)  a sewing room, where women are taught to make things which are then sold there,  (I buy a lovely reversible tuque which I’m told looks ridiculous on me, and now feels stupid to have since I’m currently writing looking out at a sprawling tropical beach in near 30 degree weather! Take that Canadians!)

Then we’re led up to one of several classrooms around the town run by Inti Sisa.  We meet some charming young Ecuadorian students and watch them singing along to an Ecuadorian show teaching barnyard sounds before heading back into the guesthouse portion of the organization.

On another note for anyone looking for valuable and amazing teaching experience: Inti Sisa normally houses a volunteer english teacher (minimum one year commitment) but they haven’t been able to get one for the past year. The kids suffer because of this and don’t learn much english which could open countless doors of them later in life. If anyone is interested check out this website. You don’t have to pay for the program and they will house and feed you. I’m definitely hoping to come back and do this later in life when I’m back to teaching my way around the world, instead of just travelling.

On that note I recently found out New Zealand’s working holiday visa extends to 35 years old so maybe this trip will go a bit longer than the currently planned 6 years!  Who knows! I certainly hope it does, especially sitting here typing looking out at the pacific ocean.

At any rate Ava offers me a ride to the main road in a truck long with one other tourist, a local driver, and several freshly purchased pigs.  As we pull up, we see a somewhat rare bus heading all the way to Cuenca and I rush out into the rain, tossing my bag into the luggage compartment under the bus and climbing aboard as it pulls away.

Guamote was incredible and a true sampling of Authentic Ecuadorian life, but my brother and his girlfriend are waiting in Cuenca, and I’m excited to see them.