Iguazu Falls Argentina with Awesome Friends
Date of Entry: December 12th 2015
Date of Writing: December 28th 2015
(Lots of Photos Stolen from Thea. Thanks Thea!)
we wake up early in time to have a quick breakfast and head to the bus station in time for the first bus. I can’t tell if my friends are mad at me for insisting on the early hour, but since they have only one day to see the Argentinean side I think it was for the best. At the bus station we inquire about the boat adventure availability and are told there is only spaces at 9 am (something I’m fairly sure wasn’t true) Still, after some discussion, Thea and I decide to book it, with Nico and Llilians opting to skip it. Here’s a little info about your boat options from the Argentinean side.
Normally you have two different options for the adventure boat ride from the Argentinean side, the small adventure, or the big adventure. There’s also the ecological tour but that takes you through canals above the falls and is a different kind of thing. Normally I’d recommend the smaller boat ride. It’s much much shorter, but encompasses all of the highlights of the big adventure for almost half the price. (650 ARS vs 350 ARS). Problem is right now only the grand Adventura is available because the boat port on the lower trail near San Martin Island is closed due to high water levels. The big adventure includes a 30 minute open air guided bus ride through the jungle at the beginning and again at the end, but the noise of the bus scares all but the bravest animals away and what you’re really paying for is getting up close and personal with the falls, which both tours do for the same amount of time. Is it worth it even at 650 ARS? Yes I think so, but is it a must do? No. if you’re on a tight budget I wouldn’t shell out for it, but if you have the money its an adrenalin packed all be it expensive 10-12 minutes by the falls.
At any of rate, our boat passages secured the four of us climb onto the 7:20 bus from Rio Uruguay and chat away the bus ride, buying our entrance tickets and quickly entering the park just a few minutes after the gates have opened. We all head to the green trail together, and I give Nico and Llilians some advice on what to do before Thea and I head back towards the adventure companies office near the entrance to start our big adventure.
We are boarded onto a big open air truck bed along with lots and lots of other people, though we’re both sad to see one family pulled aside, a problem with the id’s they brought. It’s particular poignant because the child who is being barred from the trip has down syndrome and is clearly shattered by the news. I jsut want to tell them to get to the falls on one of the trails, because I can’t imagine anyone being so upset when looking out at that level of beauty. Happily enough much later in the day we see the family on the trails, and everyone is grinning.
We motor on through the beautiful jungle a friendly guide identifying some of the plants and talking about all the animals in the park, including jaguars and pumas, but of course we don’t expect to see anything and we don’t, climbing downa nd being handed heavy duty life jackets and a dry bag for our stuff. It’s at this moment that I go to turn on my go pro and find that somehow the battery has drained out overnight. So frustrating.
After some last minute adjustments to our life jackets we climb aboard the big zodiac style boat, Thea and I lucky enough to get two seats together in the front row, and soon enough we’re off, heading up the river towards the falls.
We go through some rapids, the mist of the falls growing in the distance and soon enough we’re passing by the first few small falls and then before you know, boom we’re out over the rapids in full view of both sides of what is perhaps South Americas most impressive natural marvel.
We pull up to either side of the falls, keeping at a safe distance for the camera’s and letting everyone snap some more photos of the falls, one of the drivers acting as photographer and cycling through the groups coming to the front and getting a few great shots. The rush of the falls mixed with the current of the water just underneath are feet helps you to appreciate in a whole new way just how much incredible power there is here. It’s truly impressive and being out on the water helps you to feel a part of it.
Then we get the call that it’s time to put our camera’s away as we’re going to be approaching the falls properly. A wave of excitement crashes over the boat as everyone gets ready, most people tightening ponchos in an attempt to stay dry. It’s going to be an impossible feat and I frankly don’t get why you’d want to, what’s the point of taking a crazy boat ride full of adrenalin into powerful cascades only to try to stay dry. Thea and I do no such thing, just getting more and more excited as the motor whirrs against the current and we rush towards the blindingly thick mist cloud which surrounds the falls.
Because of my silly go pro issues there’s no photos or videos, but the next 5 or so minutes are utterly intense as we zoom up towards the crashing cascades, thick into the mist on both sides of the falls. The best moment comes when we force our eyes open against the torrent of water and through blurry water spotted vision we see just how close we are to this raw force of nature, water rushing pouring down all around us. It’s madness and makes it hard to argue with the high price, I just wish we’d spent more time and had a captain who was a little more adventurous, but maybe that’s just because I’ve explored so many waterfalls going straight into them. One day I’d love to illegally rent a boat and captain it myself, but Thea seemed to suggest that might be a bad idea.
After an utterly blood pumping 5 minutes we head out of the rush for the last time and head back down the river to climb back up to the truck and head back towards the central area of the park near the sheraton where Thea and i waste no time hurrying along towards estacion Cataratas to meet Llilians and Nico.
We arrive at the station just a few minutes after they’ve gotten there and head out towards the devils throat since Nico and Llilians have taken the time to do both the lower and upper trails although they do warn us that the lower trail was blocked off after a certain point, which must have happened in the last 2 days because it’s news to me.
Having just missed the train we decide to walk to the Devil’s throat it’s only 25 minutes to 30 minutes and it passes fast enough since we still have stories to share from the last few months of travel. I also find a giant leaf, which comes in handy both as a fan and a hiding place.
As we reach the train station we stop a moment to find some incredible butterflies all huddled around the outdoor shower stations meant for cooling off on a sunny day. since the sun is only just beginning to peak out from behind the clowns we don’t need the showers, but the butterflies are very beautiful.
Eventually we bid the butterflies farewell and head out onto the boardwalk which snakes over the ricer a good distance back from most of the falls leading out to what is probably the most impressive view point of the falls on either side. Getting there I rejoice just seeing the joy on the faces of my friends, the falls directly opposite the viewpoint is undoubtedly the most falling water I have ever seen.
We spend a lot of time here, which makes me proud to call these people my friends. The water levels are slowly receding since I first arrived but there’s still just so much water crashing over the brink of this narrow horseshoe that the giant fire works of mist fill the air, and as the wins change often drench us to the bone. It’s thrilling and fantastic and just so much fun to share with three awesome people. And we take way too many photos.
As we’re about to leave my three friends catch sight of a man who apparently moves and looks just like Thea’s brother, though it turns out to be a completely random person, still I take the chance to take a pair of creepy photos.
Reluctant to leave but Thea and I still with a lot to do we head back along the boardwalk and hop on the train back to the station where we eat some lunch, chasing off lots of pesky coati’s before heading back to the lower trail. Nico and Lillians seem a little hesitant at first, but both end up coming as we hope the blocked off section fo the trail will be open now.
As we make it to the first real waterfall I relish the moments on the bridge below it getting soaked in mist and in rainbows. We take turns going up above and snapping photos of each others, the rainbows hitting the perfect height while Thea takes some pictures of me. The sun is peaking out more and more, making me even more excited for all the amazing viewpoints I know are still to come. (I should note the photos of Llilians and her strange photo bombing man were actually taken on the way back from the lower trail)
We continue along towards the first viewpoint of the falls hopeful to see the trail opened up but first we come to the palm fringed viewpoint and soak in an amazing view,me thinking back to being down there on the water with Thea and just how strong the current actually is.
We get to the next viewpoint and are saddened to find the rest of the rail blocked off, though we can’t really tell why. I try to persuade the others to jump the barrier with me but they are more reasonable than I so we settle for some photos at the last viewpoint before heading back to the upper trail.
And one special photo after Llilians was asked a somewhat unique question, “Could you move your carrot” which was apparently obstructing the ideal photo for a very impatient woman, but oh well it spawned this wonderful photo so it was worth it.
Before we get the Llilians decides that she’s tired enough and is ready to go back to the hostel, having already done the upper trail in the morning. It’s understandable, and I’m tired too, luckily waterfalls cure me of any ailment so I’m thrilled that Thea and Nico are ready to keep going, the sun’s coming out and I’ve got an inkling that there may be some rainbows, though even I am not prepared for the magic we walk out to.
The rainbows are out in full force and I’m just jumping and down with excitement that I get to share my most beautiful day on the upper trail with these two awesome people. Excited as I am I take way way too many photos as we wander out onto the endless boardwalks,and rather than bore you with still more heavy hatted words we’ll just do a huge photo gallery. I apologize for the sheer volume of photos here but do hope you enjoy them.
The one thing I will mention from our walking of the upper trail, which we looped back along the waterfall side of the falls since it wasn’t too crowded was that we could see a bunch of people down believe on the section of the lower trail that had been closed off, and somehow, though everyone’s exhausted by now from too much sun and too much walking, I manage to persuade Nico and Thea to try to go there one more time. Truth be told it wasn’t actually that hard since I think both of them saw just how special this place is and unlike me, they don’t have weeks to spend visiting it.
Still I’m impressed by their tenacity and energy as we head down past the first waterfall on the lower trail asking a Brazilian girl if the trail ahead is now open. She smiles and says it is open but then laughs and I’m almost not surprised when we get there and find it still blocked off. I don’t know for sure she was lying on purpose but still, it’s frustrating.
We head back the way we’ve come disappointed until I finally figure out the blatantly obvious, we need to go in through the exit, it’s probably just a small section of trail that’s been blocked off. After a little convincing the others decide to come with me and we hurry past Salto Dos Hermanas and Salto Chico before coming to one of my favourite outcropping lookouts close under the powerful flow of several different falls.
We get out to the final point after seeing the reason for the trail closure, a huge section of the path knocked out by an apparent landslide. Nico decides he wants to stay dry, but Thea comes with me, ducking under the little caution tape and heading out into the mad mist of the falls, spraying in violent torrents in all directions. It’s incredible and Nico is kind enough to snap a few photos.
From here we head back all utterly exhausted but all very happy to have spent such an amazing day together, and in fact, the only downside of the day that there was no real special animal sightings. Okay Nico and I saw a Toucan flying in the distance which Thea missed, which she also slept through back in Samaipata Bolivia. Luckily as we get close to the entrance of the upper trail along side a closed watchtower of the trail, a huge a beautiful toucan is spotted in the tree. This time Thea can’t miss it and we watch it awe for a few minutes before it takes off and flees from the small crowd of tourists still left in the park. The canopy made it tough but I did manage one picture, along with another of some delightful if less impressive brightly coloured bird in a nearby bush.
We get in the bus and I am firmly told by my friends to be quiet so they can sleep, it’s hard but I manage by freestyling silently to myself the whole ride because I’m that cool. We get off a bit before the bus station to get supplies for pancakes which I made them back in Santa Cruz. We get everything except maple syrup thanks to Argentina’s love affair with Dulce de Leche and after some tasty indian leftovers we spend the night playing fooseball and doubles ping pong enjoying the hell out of each others company. I do find it amazing how simple games like that with the right people can be almost as much fun as going to the falls.
I wake up super early to get the pancakes ready since my friends have a bus to rio around midday from the Brazilian side to spend there last few days after 5 months in South America together. We enjoy some artery clogging but tasty Canadian pancakes and then I walk them to the bus station and see them off, beyond sad to see the three of them go.
Nico, Llillians, Thea, if you’re reading this you are all awesome people who I am so glad I met and got to travel with. It was a lot of fun in Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil. I hope life brings you all nothing but amazingness and good luck to all of you back in Europe. You are all awesome and thanks for putting up with my ridiculousness about waterfalls!
