Date of Entry:  February 25th 2016

Date of Writing:  April 14th 2016, Art Factory hostel Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

The others don’t make it back to the boat until 5 am or so, which means we don’t leave at our scheduled time of 7 am, though frustratingly I wake up for that time having been told it’s still the plan.  Oh well, a big and memorable night has been had at all.  We end up leaving around 10 am which only sucks because it means we have no time to stop by Peterman island where a few lingering Adele penguins have been seen.  But what can you do. Besides, our sailing path up to the British outpost of Port Lockroy takes us back up through the Lemaire channel which is probably the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever scene, and were immensely lucky today, as after several days of misty grey at Vernadsky we get plenty of blue skies, allowing Antarctica to glisten in all it’s icy splendour.

As we leave our Ukrainian home behind and head up through the mountainous narrow channel the sky only keeps clearing and the seals accent the stunning  chunks of ice which surround us.  Some of my companions are pretty tired but I’ve gotten enough sleep and am out on deck constantly, not just to watch for animals, but ice too, as it’s not something we want to make a habit of hitting.  More than anything though the seals shine, soaking up sun on melting ice chunks and just being way too cute.

As we continue Northwards towards our second last anchorage in Antarctica we pass a cool iceberg on our right, for some reason infested with Antarctic and maybe even some Arctic turns.  (The arctic turn has one of the longest migratory routes in the entire animal kingdom for those interested.)  I don’t know what it is about this particular iceberg, but they sure seem to love it.

Now I don’t know about you readers, but I’m blessed with a good travel mind in that I don’t get sick of things easily and I don’t care if i’ve seen other similar things, for me beauty is beauty and as we sail up through the Lemaire channel I appreciate each and every seal and iceberg we pass. It’s hard not to when they’re all so incredibly beautiful.  But I’ve met many travellers who don’t work this way, people who go to Iguazu and then compare every other waterfall to it.  It’s not inherently wrong I guess, but I’m very glad it’s not a major part of my make up.

Eventually I decide to duck down below deck long enough to have a bite to eat but it’s not long  before Darrel and Tash call me quickly back out, and thankfully I’m fast enough to spend a minute or two watching a pair of minke whales swim playfully around our boat before disappearing.

I spend more time out on deck as we approach the famed post office at Port Lockroy run by the British post office.  Funnily enough the prices are lower, and the service times better (in my experience)  than any post office in South America.

More Seals appear as we drift into the stunning bay surrounded by some of the most towering impressive mountains I’ve seen down here, a perfect mix of ice and rock to create a truly picturesque and dramatic place.  The British around the world certainly know how to find beautiful places and claim them as there own, i mean just look at India.

Once we’re anchored in behind the incredibly beautiful base I’m shocked to find no one else is keen on doing anything, and it’s only maybe 5 oclock in the afternoon.  Darrel sees my eagerness to get off the boat and offers to take me ashore and leave me there for a few hours.  At first I’m hesitant to go alone, but he’s persistent in encouraging me and that hesitance is one of the stupidest things I’ve ever felt.    Really.  What in Ra’s name was I thinking.

Eventually it ends up being Josh driving me to shore since he wants to set up his go pro for a time lapse of the boat in the bay and soon enough I’m setting foot on the land behind port lockroy alone, Josh hanging out for just a few minutes.  I’m immediately greeted by an aggressive fur seal, a few Gentoo penguins, and so many massive whale bones.  It’s a pretty damn cool place, and to be there alone is beyond incredible.

As I stand above some whale bones looking up towards the impressive line of dark stone mountains which dominate the scenery here, my ears catch a rumble deep and powerful and my eyes dart to find it’s source.  It takes a few seconds to get my camera on and working but what follows is the biggest and best avalanche of my time in Antarctica.  It’s crazy and the way the snow billows up after it’s landing like a mushroom cloud is hard to believe. Josh is still near the boat and gets to see it to, and believe me when I say the video can’t capture the real power of this crazy event.

After the avalanche Josh heads back to the Spirit of Sydney and leaves me truly alone on shore to explore this incredible terrain covered in gentoo penguins and awe inspiring views.  Antarctica is full of awe, maybe the most awe filled place I’ve ever been, and I wish I could do a better job of bringing you all there.  Pictures words and videos don’t do it, so I hope some of you get a chance to go yourselves one day.

The Gentoos trumpeting to find their chicks or parents is beyond an adorable soundtrack and they do it with such one minded ferocity that it’s downright impressive to watch.  Wandering around alone leaves me with a tremendous feeling of isolation and exploration and though I can see the Spirit of Sydney in the distance I begin to feel more like a penguin than a human.

As I climb up towards the rocky mountains I find some more doomed tiny baby Gentoos born too late in the season to have much chance at surviving, but they are still so damn cute.

I want nothing more than to keep heading up, climbing some impressive hills, but I know that Josh is preparing a green curry with shrimp so I definitely don’t want to miss that.  That in mind I turn back and head towards a little hidden inlet beach covered in big chunks of freshly fallen ice.  It was a good choice in the end, as this seems to be the main takeoff and arrival point of the rookery, and watching penguins swimming and emerging from the ocean is one of the most amazing things I’ve done.  They’re so quick and graceful in the water, compared to their somewhat ungainly waddle on land.

I check the time and decide I’d best be heading back so climbing over the small rise in the rock I get on the radio and ask if someone can come pick me up, before long, James, who knows how to drive the Zodiac, is heading out to retrieve me and just in time for a truly delicious dinner.  Phew.

Still being totally alone in Antarctica sticks with me and I look for more opportunities to do it throughout the rest of the trip. Its a feeling you can’t quite describe, but when I think back on the times alone even know, my heart flutters with a nervous yet driven excitement.

After  a delicious dinner I can’t help myself and head back up on deck, initially just to sit, read and watch for more avalanches, but eventually finding the motivation to work out.  As I struggle through my core workout though the sun begins to set on the sky and the mountains below it start to turn incredible hues of purple, pink, and blue.  It’s a spectacle and soon enough everyone is out on deck to appreciate one of our best Antarctic sunsets yet. I do manage to finish my workout, but with lots of interruptions.

And if today’s amazing experiences weren’t enough, stay tuned, because tomorrow is another very special day.