Date of Entry: February 25th 2016
Date of Writing: April 15th 2016, Palermo Art Factory Hostel, Buenos Aires, Argentina
We wake up early and find the clouds are gone leaving just a brilliant blue sky and bringing a whole new level of beauty to the incredible British outpost of Port Lockroy. There’s barely a breath of wind, which means it’s reflection time for the mountains in the ocean, and it’s truly impressive.
I make pancakes with frozen berries cooked into them to fuel us through this beautiful day and then soon enough we’re getting ready to leave the boat.
While the Mexicans Matt and Josh head off kayaking, Enora, Tash, James and myself are dropped off on a different section of shore, climbing over so many rocks looking for the ancient carvings of some very famous explorer names like Hubert Wilkins. There’s some ancient graffiti but truth be told were still not sure if we found his real name. What we do find though is just incredible views of the glaciers and mountains all around us, mirrored in the perfect blue waters.
We eventually hop back in the Zodiac piloted by James and land back where I spent some wonderful solitary hours yesterday, but today is a new day and instead of an aggressive fur seal to greet us we find a playful crab eater sleeping in the snow and chilling hard enough that we get to take some fun pictures with our new friend.
The day is beyond beautiful and stunningly warm considering where we are in the world. As I start up through the Gentoo penguin rocks past the same ancient whale bones I visited yesterday I find an irrepressible smile on my face. Before coming to Antarctica I had a lot of genuine concerns I might not enjoy my experience, nine people on a 55 foot sailboat can easily go bad. But it hasn’t and even though my expectations for Antarctica were high, they’ve just been eclipsed, over and over again.
Unlike yesterday, we’ve got lots of time, so this time around when I crest the first rise I keep heading up towards those towering dark rock faces looming over us, climbing higher and higher, surprised to still find penguins as I go, but also running in to some very aggressive Skuas who no doubt have chicks stashed somewhere and don’t appreciate my accidental intrusion.
I find some truly stunning places to sit and feel what little wind there is to feel up there, looking out at the ocean and down on Port Lockroy reflecting on the perfection of this place. On the way up from Vernadsky I’d started to question just how an experience could be worth what I’ve paid for this trip a bit, but count on Antarctica to deliver another day like this to remind me just how lucky we are.
With time I’m joined up top by Tash and Enora, with James taking a seat on the other hilltop nearby and filming some penguins who have impressively made their home so far from the ocean. I spend a good chunk of time perched up here above the rest of the world looking down and just thinking, but for once I don’t take that many photos.
We’ve all got our individual thrones, though Tash and Enora eventually decide to head around the back end, descending behind me but calling out that they’ve found a chinstrap penguin, the first we’ve seen on land since Deception Island.
As Tash and Enora disappear down below us I just can’t make myself move from this ridiculous viewpoint. It’s the hard thing to explain about Antarctica, but in general if you pick a direction and look there, you’ll see amazing things. And here this is more true than anywhere else. I know you’ve all seen a lot of penguins by now, but I hope that like me you’re still enjoying them, because these stinky, waddling little birds are beyond awesome.
Eventually though our time is running short as we are planning to visit the british at Lockroy later this afternoon so I slowly start heading down towards our pick up point, luckily making lots of stops including a closer up visit with our lonely chin strap, our friendly crab eater seal and so many more penguins. I also get some more photos with the Freestyle adventure Travel flag, a company I really recommend speaking with if you’re going to Antarctica. Eventually though we catch a Zodiac ride back to the Spirit of Sydney for a quick bite before our visit to Lockroy.
After a brief stop on board we head to Port Lockroy where we are welcomed by the three brits who won the honour of manning the base and running the worlds southern most post office. But their most constant job, and perhaps the most important one, for some baffling reason, is keeping the rocks up to the base clean of penguin poo. Seriously they keep cleaning the rocks day in day out using water and brushes even as the penguins keep pooping everywhere. It’s pretty to funny to me, and no doubt quite annoying to them, especially on days less perfect than today.
We are warmly welcomed and shown into the museum which is restored to how the base functioned many years ago, then of course there’s time in the gift shop/post office which is surprisingly cheap and effective. I sent just under two kilos of stuff back to Canada in a parcel for around 20 USD and it got there less than a month later. Just a few things for a few people, but it’s pretty cool to be able to send people things from the Frozen white south.
After our visit to the base we head back to the ship in time to find the kayakers returning form there longest paddle yet. The sun is still blazing bright in the sky above us and Antarctica below is all around us, so beautiful.
Back on board though the fun is just beginning and Tash ratchets up the insanity five full notches by declaring it’s time to go for a swim, but not just any swim. She climbs up the mast, and well let’s just go to the video.
Yeah, Tash is insane. After her polar plunge though we decide to take further advantage of this perfect day and head out in the Zodiac around behind where the kayakers went, hoping for an even better view of the unique and impressive line of mountains behind lockroy. the sun is bright and almost warm making it there perfect time for a boat ride.
The paint me jack on board the Zodiac was a bit dangerous but worth it in my mind at least and puts my mind back into the realm of ridiculousness so once we’re back on board and I’ve warmed up a bit I quietly ask Tash to come out and take some photos of my swim.
Let me start with this, the water in Antarctica. It’s cold. but I’m Canadian, and the sensation of swimming so far south is worth it. After a few quick moments of pep talk and singing my cold song I’m jumping off the side of the boat, too scared of the climb to mirror Tash’s incredible feat, but determined to stay in longer than anyone else.
The feeling of sinking into the deep water, always seeming like your plummeting deeper as your body struggles to adjust to the bitter cold is a strange sensation. On one hand it’s terrifying and horrible, but on the other its the best feeling in the world, especially once flailing limbs finally break the surface again.
It’s colder than I expected and I quickly start swimming back towards the sugar scoop intending to get out quick, but then I think about you the readers and so swim out all the way around to the other side of the boat for some more photos before eventually struggling with numb limbs to make it back on board. all in all i spend about 75 seconds in the water, but it feels like a lot longer.
Once I’m out I head in to hug the heater for a bit before emerging again, impressed by both the Mexicans as Ulises and Mariana decide to jump into the water. i mean I’m Canadian, you’d expect me to swim, these guys are brave, jumping in together, posing for a few quick photos and then climbing out post haste.
But this magical day isn’t done with us yet, as the sun starts to set we get a radio call from The Argentinean Navy who are near buy on a freshly purchased ship from Russia renamed Isla Malvinas (Known as the Falkland Islands to the British). they want to invite us on board for a tour and some drinks and snacks later. We’re thrilled to accept and then even more thrilled to watch yet another stunning sunset from the deck of the Spirit of Sydney. The trip is edging closer to it’s end and I’ll admit in these moments of quiet reflection I’m beginning to wonder just how much I’ll miss this frozen wonderland.
Eventually we’re climbing on to the Zodiac and heading off into the more open waters of the bay in search of the huge Argentinean Navy Vessel. As we reach out destination the last glimmering lights of dusk start to wither away leaving us bathed in darkness. With the amount of ice chunks hanging in the water, it’s going to be an interesting trip back to the spirit of Sydney.
On board we’re welcomed by lots of friendly Argentineans and given a tour of the impressive, though still very Russian looking new ship before being taken to the officers lounge for drinks, snacks and some good Spanish conversation. It’s been rare for me to get much chance to practice my Spanish this past month and I take it as a welcome challenge while the rest of our group sips on fernet and has their own chats. On board are some really cool people, some the equivalent of Navy seals and others professional divers. Oh and there rough seas videos make ours look tame.
Eventually though the Argentineans bid us goodnight, all of us very much in need of some sleep. The ride back though is interesting, with only the moon to light our path and so many pieces of ice to dodge before we’re back safe. The wind has turned cold and clouds are rolling in, and I find myself doubting that tomorrow could ever equal today, which, it has to be said, is another prime contender for my favourite day inAntarctica, along with arriving at Gonzalez Videla station, and our trip to Baily’s head rookery on deception Island.
