Three and a half days and it already feels like a months worth of experience. Travelling is unlike anything I’ve experienced in this world and Colombia has not disappointed so far. Of course, like riding a bike in real life instead of the cliche, it did take a little time to adjust to the life I’ve chosen for the foreseeable future. I do find it remarkable how easy it is to slip back into the comfort of old routines of home, and breaking them always takes some effort.
The first half day in cartagena was strange. Just the taxi from the airport to my hostel showed a city bursting with beauty and electrified by the energy and attitude of it’s people. Still I felt like a stranger who’d suddenly found himself in madness without a single plan. The half day suddenly seemed like a lot of time to kill rather than enjoy. We’re all prone to moments of foolishness though, and the all encompassing heat certainly didn’t help. I found myself sitting in fairly full shade, sweat still dripping off me. But after those initial feelings of trepidation the surrounded me and swept up into it, and now I’m sitting here writing having just extended my time here by another 3 days. The heat is still impressive, the city is still overwhelming, but they are all a part of something I am fast coming to love.
After a good night’s sleep, much needed after overnighting in syracuse Airport I rose early to watch manchester united then headed out to the city with betting the heat in mind. Turns out the only way to do that is leave before the sun comes up. I left the hostel at 8:45 and by 8:47 my shirt was a different colour thanks to the sweat, but it was the beginning of a great day. By noon I’d managed to get locked in the cathedral, get lost in the maze of the old town, and meet a lovely Argentinian/colombian couple sitting in the welcome shade of a plaza. Getting locked in the Cathedral was a little unnerving, but I did finally get a window into one reason religion might be so strong in south america. The cathedral had fans, good ones too. Sure some people are probably true believers, but I wonder how many of the others who were in there when I first entered were there for the breeze and not their lord.
Regardless it was a beautiful building and An elderly worker finally led me out into a beautiful sanctuary full of flowers, plants and a few macaws. Eventually I found the exit there and realized that the sanctuary was a pay to enter attraction. Oh well, no on said anything, and despite God’s best effort, I escaped.
In the past three days I’ve done many things, including a lot of writing, and I’ve certainly fallen in love with Cartagena. Still, what has made Colombia so great and what has me thinking that perhaps 2 months might be better than one in this lovely country is quite simply the people. I don’t know whether they’re inherently friendlier than the amazing people I met in Asia, but the vital difference is I speak a decent amount of spanish and it allows for far more interaction, conversation and connection. One of those things that makes travel truly fantastic.
Apart from the aforementioned couple, I met a group of perhaps 80 middle school students from Baranquillo, a lovely new friend from Venezuela who kindly promised to show me around Caracas in the safest way possible if I make it, Several different friendly families who came and sat in benches next to mine, and a man who I believe came from Spain who know roamed the city doing Bubble therapy. On the weekend he does it in the old town and collects donations then during the week he goes to underprivileged parts of the city and plays with the children that way, hoping to help them forget the stresses of life and at least for a brief moment, play like kids should get to. Watching him in the park and the joy on kids, teens and adults faces alike was quite a privilege.
Yesterday was my best day in a long while. The morning spent writing in and around an ancient Spanish castle overlooking the city, followed by a visit to the ceviche festival (A delicious seafood dish famous in Colombia and other parts of South America) Then an afternoon spent writing in an old town plaza, meeting most of the aforementioned people above, all followed up by a huge concert in Plaza de Trinidad, mere steps from my hostel. (I should say Mama Waldy’s has been an awesome home and the family who runs it have been very welcoming and sweet. I recommend it to anyone coming to Cartagena though granted it’s the only hostel here I’ve stayed in.)
That night at the concert I met still more friendly locals as well as two nice young Americans and we spent the evening listening to amazing music which I can’t quite describe. I took a bad video of it which I’ll include at the end of this post, but the energy of the crowd and musicians both made it really special.
I love being able to communicate with people in their language here, and am always astounded by their patience, and kindness as they watch a stranger butcher their tongue. Already in just a few days I am endlessly more capable than when I arrived. That’s a good thing, but I’ve still got a long ways to go.
A few other noteworthy mentions. The food in Colombia so far has been delicious whatever it may be, the Ceviche and fresh fruit juices available on the street being the undeniable highlights. I also have to say that Colombian people on the whole are an incredibly attractive bunch, I notice it in women more but it’s certainly also true of the men. Cartagena is very interesting because it has a long history tied to slavery and african heritage is very much present here, then of course there is the spanish influence, and of course the original people of Colombia. These factors, mixed with their quick to smile nature, makes Colombia an exciting and beautiful place to people watch.
The city itself is strange, historical and brand new, depending on the neighbourhood. Wealthy or poor too. Slums to skyscrapers. Part of the city has a Miami like sky line, another part has.. well. the resident are well off if they’ve got a roof. It’s hard to fathom sometimes, but fascinating and shows a glimpse of our selfish natures. There’s also constantly huge birds up above, eagles, hawks, pelicans, egrets. Just about everything.
I’ve got 3 more days to spend here and then It’ll be off to Santa Marta. Im toying with the idea of trying to get to Punta Gallina; the northern-most point in south america, through a huge desert to the sea and certainly off the beaten path. I found an excellent blog for anyone coming to Colombia or lots of central america and it gave me the idea of Punta Gallina. http://theadventuresofadr.com/2013/04/07/high-temperatures-and-low-tides-in-the-north-of-the-south-4-nights-in-punta-gallinas-colombia/ I’m hoping I can do it alongside Tayrona and Minca for the Caribbean coast but we shall see. Maybe a stop in Barranquilla too. all I know is the more I fall in love with this country the more it seems to need at least two months. Viva Colombia.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU-S6J5IaOw&feature=youtu.be
