Written January 19th 2015
India divides opinion among travellers. I loved it. Many Don’t. I think it’s important to understand that India is an amazing place to travel, but not a great place to vacation. It’s not relaxing, but if you go in looking for adventure and fascinating culture you should have a wonderful time. Travelling is absurdly cheap and the vast majority of people are very friendly. Don’t let the stares scare you, it’s just curiosity.
1 Rule of India:
Try eating everything and talk with as many people as you can (using common sense). You won’t regret it and it will make these 10 suggestions endlessly better.
(all single photos not in gallery form are not mine but taken from google Images)
I was only in Kolkata for a day. I ate enough for a week. Every little whole in the wall was serving up some sort of delicious creation. My advice forget the ideal of one big meal. Eat 12 slightly less than big ones. India is famous for causing food poisoning, but the only time I got it in Agra the meal tasted so good it was more or less worth it. Kolkata couldn’t be beat food wise, and If you order more than you can eat, no worries, get it to go. It won’t take long to find some poor soul eager to take the food off your hands. (This is often the best way to help beggars day to day in India, as especially in the big cities money is funnelled through gangs, food is eaten on the spot. Besides this lets your order two dishes, eat half of each one and feed a family as you go all for 4 or 5 dollars.)
9. Visit Sanjay Ghandi National Park just outside of Mumbai and finish off at Leopold’s.
This is a great escape from the city and the tuk-tuk ride gives you a great little cheap tour of India’s sprawling metropolis. Though fair warning if traffic is bad it can double in length to more than 2 hours. The park is huge and features a somewhat depressing mini zoo with Tigers and Lions, but where it really shines is hiking to the Kanheri caves. This provides a marvelous view of the park and the city and is also home to some ancient carvings and a ton of monkeys. Be careful not to let them steal your coke like I did. Leopold’s is back in fort and is a tourist set up serving great deserts. It’s also a major setting in Shantaram, a book I certainly recommend.
Any James Bond fans out there will recognize Udaipur as a main setting of the film Octapussy. The town is beautiful and full of temples, a (somewhat overcrowded) palace, and a stunning lake nestled in the hills of Rajastan. Just walking around the city is pleasant as the people are very friendly once you learn that a stare in India is not a rude thing. I also had a great time sitting on the roof top of Mewargarh Palace and watching Monkeys traverse the city.
7. Take an overnight train anywhere in India and talk to people.
The train system in India is incredibly impressive and dirt cheap too boot. I spent about 24 hours on two separate trains for under 5 dollars. That Price included a full lay down bed in a compartment shared with just 5 people. That’s insanity. The reservation system for Indian Trains is the biggest reservation system in the world, and In India the train will get you almost anywhere you want to go. I rode in the lowest class with an assigned seat and never regretted it. The people we’re friendly and eager to communicate through language or other means, the vendors who came on board sold delicious food and piping hot Chai, and in general the time passed quickly on the train. Oh and If you look like a tourist go stand by the door of the car as you pull into a town, more often then not kids will be waiting to wave to you, and chasing after you will make their day. Most trains run on time, though when one runs late it’s often very late since they prioritize keeping the others running on time. Still on board an Indian train is like a whole other world.
6. Wander the narrow alleyways of Banaras and find the Pakistani neighbourhood for a tasty lunch.
One of my best tips for travel in India is socialize with locals or Indian travellers from other parts of the country. They will open doors for you. A good half hour walk from the Kautilya society heading away from the river you will find a small Muslim neighbourhood full of amazing street food options. I found this place with a friend Digvijay and to this day I’ve never eaten better Naan bread or Beef curry. And all for about 2 dollars. For dessert, grab a Dosa (A south Indian treat similar to a crepe 30 cents) back near the Kautilya society. General advice on India, just walk around everywhere. A simple walk through any Indian city can often turn into an adventure and is always stimulating to all 5 senses.
5.Wander in the Fort Neighbourhood of Mumbai and be sure to eat a lot.
Mumbai is a sprawling city full of madness. The fort neighbourhood is fascinating to walk around and get an idea of just how much British influence still lingers. Victoria Train Station is an architectural Marvel, and t’s not alone. The streets are crowded and hectic and at night they serve as bed for thousands of less fortunate people but the fort neighbourhood is great to explore, and so long as you are using common sense, it’s safe too. Perhaps the highlight of the whole neighbourhood is the countless hole in the wall restaurants that all seem to serve up some of the best food imaginable. Eat a huge dinner for 3 dollars and have enough left over to feed a few of the beggars outside. Mumbai is expensive accommodation wise, but Traveller’s Inn is probably the most backpacker friendly place to stay.
4. Safari in Gypsy Jeeps in Ranthambore National Park
Ranthambore National Park is one of your best chances to see a Tiger in the wild. I managed only half a tiger but the park is filled with different species of Deer, monkeys, birds, crocodiles, and even sloth bears. The town by the park is called Sawai Madhopur and it is full of Hotels. I stayed at City Heart and it was perfectly fine. You can book morning and afternoon safari’s online here or do it once you get there. Be sure to try to book the Gypsy safari on a jeep instead of the canter on a huge open air truck. The quietness and versatility of the jeep really pay off. Also make sure you get zones 1-5 any number higher than that is a buffer zone and your chances of spotting a majestic tiger go way down.
I went on Christmas which means it was very busy but somehow more special. The Taj Mahal is world famous for a reason, and watching the sun go down there is pretty incredible. The building is bigger than I ever imagined and something about the simple white symmetry is more special than any rainbow of colour could be. While in Agra make sure to check out the Red Fort too. Looking for a place to stay in Agra? Check out Friends Paying Guest House and walk to the Taj Mahal.
2. Explore the palace and Military fort looming over Bundi.
Bundi is a fascinating little town found in the Rajastan Province of India. A bustling little tourist scene does not detract from the beauty of this place nestled between massive hills. The best thing to do in Bundi is hike up the hill and check out the few open sections of the old palace. (Most of it has been reclaimed by nature in the form of Bats, Bees and Snakes,) From there continue up into the old fort but be sure to rent a big stick to keep the monkeys at bay. (The white ones with blackfaces aren’t too bad, the red faced ones are vicious.) Up at the fort not only will you find a stunning place to watch the sunset, but some fascinating ruins and empty step wells. And of course lots of monkey friends.
1. Take a boat ride on the Ganges river in the Holy city of Banaras.
Banaras, or Varanasi is a lot to take. For some it is too much shock. For this reason it really sums up India. Varanasi is in central Northern India and is a holy city for Hindu people. Here, on the banks of the Ganges rivers funeral pyres burn 24/7. It’s a strange feeling watching a stranger burn, and perhaps a stranger feeling watching people bathe a few feet downstream. Still, there is an undeniable energy in Banaras and I myself spent much longer than I meant to here. Boat rides are cheap and easy to arrange, head out for sunrise or sunset to see the ancient city painted a mosaic of orange yellow hues. If you’re looking for a great place to stay in Varanasi check out Rham Bhawan guest house run by the Kautilya society.
Enjoy your time in this amazing country which has forced it’s way back into my future travel plans. Don’t be afraid to seek out adventure and trust local people if your instincts say it’s safe.
