January 17th-19th 2015
Being sick on the road isn’t much fun, and definitely not in a place like Banos. Bus rides at altitude with a head cold also provide quite a few problems. The bus from Quito to Banos is mildly more complicated than I expected involving an hour on the C4 Trolley bus to Quitumbe Station. (25 Cents) A Roughly 3 hour hour long bus ride to Ambato, where I am unexpectedly forced to switch buses to one without any seats free to continue the extra 50 minutes on to Banos. (3.60 for both buses)
The switch isn’t the end of the world by any means but when your feeling quite ill spending near an hour standing in a crowded bus tearing along mountain roads is not pleasant, and it leaves me convinced it’s worth paying the dollar for a taxi to my hostel once I got to Banos.
Climbing out of the bus I headed back through a bustling little bus station in search of that taxi as the sun vanished from the sky. Before I can find a free one, I’m found by two young men who immediately start peppering me with questions. I’m not looking to salt their game but it feels like some sort of tourist scam so my hackles are up.
As usual, it’s not and their just after an interview for university project, so I answer their questions as one fils the interview on the tablet before they help me hail a taxi and I’m speeding off through the night to the outskirts of Banos and Hostel Recreo ( 7.00 Dorm With Free small Breakfast, and free laundry)
The 1 Dollar 5 minute taxi ride done I climb out to be greeted by Marcelo and his charming family, who welcome me to the hostel and show me to my single bead in the comfortable and clean 5 bed dorm, before insisting on driving me back to the centre to find dinner free of charge, feeling bad since I’m sick.
Banos is Gringo Land and also Ecuadorian tourist land, and my most important piece of advice for this little tourist town is, unless you want to party, avoid the weekends. Saturday night in the center everything is crowded and honestly, i did not find it very pleasant. My brief shortened by sickness Sojourn Sunday during sunlight led to mostly the same conclusion and I ended up spending most of the day blogging and resting, trying quite desperately to get better. Though my brief exploration of town does yield some dog pictures at least.
Monday goes a bit better as after breakfast I force myself out into the city to explore. It’s pleasantly empty compared to the weekends and despite huffing and puffing from the easy 15 minute walk to the center of town, I find I start enjoying myself.
The main square has a few gringo’s hovering but not enough to make it unpleasant, and I’m even allowed a photo by this man whose face I find fascinating.
That done I head into the church which dominates the square and spend a few minutes in quiet reflection before heading out into the Church Grounds and enjoying the quiet solitude.
Leaving the lovely church behind I continue on towards the main target of the day, the waterfall near the centre of the city. (hey maybe I don’t dislike Banos as much as I thought)
On the way to the falls I encounter lots of impressive street art, something I’m developing an ever growing appreciation of. Take a peak.
The waterfall winds through the edge of town towards the cliff and past a building I am utterly baffled by, before opening up to a full view of the cascades, which are diverted by several pipes to feed the Thermal Banos’ (Baths) of Banos which are tempting at only (1.50-2$) but in the end I decide It would not be responsible sick as I am to the others in the bath, and besides, despite the nice view, the baths themselves don’t look like anything special.
That said I enjoy getting up under the waterfall and meeting some friendly Argentinians while also basking in a glorious view of Banos. It was quite enjoyable, and since it’s a city based waterfall without any semblance of a pool to swim in I managed to refrain from spending more than 5 seconds under it’s flow, probably good for my sickness.
From the waterfalls and the bypassed pools I head back into the center of town and find some lunch practicing yet another travel rule of Ecuador. Eat at the Markets, In my experience, you won’t regret it.
I’d been considering an expensive looking Mexican place with an amusing sign, but once I wander in to the central market place and sit down at a table with Ecuadorians and two Belgian tourist ordering a plate of Llapingachas (Chorizo, Fried Egg, Rice, Fries, and a Small Salad all for 2.50) It’s delicious and very filling so It’s a heavy walk back towards Hostal El Recreo.
Despite being full when I encountered a man pulling the local taffy (famous in Banos) in the doorway of a shop and I couldn’t resist. It’s delicious, but sweeter than almost anything I’ve eaten which probably keeps most people from O.D’ing.
At any rate, by 3 pm when I make it back to the hostel and get back to blogging I’m starting to come around to Banos, and determined to make the most of my final day tomorrow. I’m told there’s a waterfall route, that should be enough to cure sickness, right?
