February 10th -12th 2015
Cuispes is a tiny non-descript Peruvian village nestled in the eastern edge of the Andes mountains. It’s removed from the world in many ways, without tv’s or internet, but it’s home to countless waterfalls, many over 400 meters high including the mighty 4 tiered Yumbilla falls, the 5th tallest waterfall in the world at 895 meters according to this list. That’s why I’m here.
Cuispes is also home to the charming, if somewhat expensive, Posada de Cuispes, a great place to stay and organize trekking to the various falls available. Rosita and her family cook you tasty meals (breakfast 7 soles, and Lunch or Dinner 8 Soles all under 3 USD) and look after anything you might need. The rooms are cozy and spacious and mine even has a fire place. There’s a lovely garden full of hummingbirds, fancy mosaic lights, hammocks and a few friendly dogs. My room costs 26 USD and other prices can be found on their website here. I should mention that there is another hospedaje across the square which I suspect would be cheaper than here, though likely not as pleasant.
I arrive and spend my first evening relaxing and walking around town, waving to nervously smiling children and other friendly locals. The truly amazing thing about Cuispes is how off the beaten track it feels. There are two other Chileans staying at the Posada other than that it’s just me and the villagers. Somehow Yumbilla falls was only discovered to the wider world in 2007 and organized tourism has only been going on for three years. This combined with the friendly locals and the incredible majesty of the various cascades makes Cuispes a place you won’t regret going, especially if you’re already coming to Chachapoyas, and yet so many people miss it.
The next morning I wake up early for a 7:30 am breakfast of humidos and bread with jam before climbing into a tuk tuk with my guide Mario. Today is going to be a day of trekking and waterfalls and I couldn’t be happier. It’s not the cheapest proposal as we stop by the waterfall office and I pay my entrance fee of 10 Soles. That combined with 30Soles for my guide and 20 soles for the tuk tuk both ways leaves me paying about 20 USD for the day, but trust me it’s worth it, and if you’re more than one person, it all gets cheaper. The walk is not insignificant and that’s why I’m glad when I climb into the Tuk Tuk and skip the first 6 kilometers or so as we ascend up from the village closer to the waterfalls.
As we go Mario stops at a few viewpoints giving me beautifully views of two other waterfalls not directly on the Yumbilla trek. The three tiered Cataracta Chinata, and the less impressive from a distance Pabellon Falls. Pictures can’t do them justice and you can do treks to each of these falls. Before too long I’m back in the tuk tuk and we’re winding up further into the mountains as we pass by cattle blocking the narrow road and still more evidence of landslides.
Eventually after maybe 40 minutes of ascent we reach the end of the road and climb out of the Tuk-Tuk. Here I learn that there’s a lot of trekking options available, including one up to the top of the mountain to some crazy caves and some of the higher tiers of the waterfalls. It sounds amazing and I find myself hoping I one day return in better shape with a less damaged leg so I might do that walk, as it is we go left from the end of the road, through a big locked wooden door, towards Yumbilla falls, which takes about 5 hours return with time to enjoy each set of falls. It’s certainly doable in 3.5 or 4 but not if you want to get in each set of falls, which we all know, I do.
We head down at first, along a narrow jungle trail and before long we’re lucky enough to spot a toucan, though it flies away before a picture can be taken, lots of bright green parrots buzz around in the distance but the forest around us is dense and a clear photo is impossible, but it definitely adds to the atmosphere.
The trail is muddy and narrow but not particular difficult if you’re in any kind of shape, even I manage it without too much difficulty, though it’s still a damn good workout. The trail is certainly messy and small, though the local people work hard to maintain it. Mario tells me all bout this as he hacks some branches out of the way with a trusty Machete, letting me know that tomorrow is the day all the guides come and work on the trail all day, working on building more rest stops, and clearing the way against the ever encroaching jungle. As we walk Mario makes liberal use of the machetes and I learn all about the history of tourism in Cuispes. Mario says it’s increasing slowly every year these past three years and as we reach the first waterfall on our trek I can see why.
The path opens up into a wide basin as a gorgeous waterfall sprays down into a shallow pool perhaps a hundred feet below. Mario tells me it continues higher up though further sections are masked by the jungle. Somehow he convinces me to keep going and not climb into the flow yet, (The pictures are from the way back) a mistake I won’t repeat when we get to the next falls named Cascades de Cristal. I honestly think Mario just didn’t understand what I wanted to do as I find out later most tourists don’t show much desire to enter the falls, just look at their beauty, which you can read more of my thoughts on in this brief musing coming soon.
Cristal falls is a beautiful multi-tiered cascade which continues up towards the top of the looming jungle façade of the mountain before me. I peel of my shirt and shoes quickly and climb into the pleasantly cold water, enjoying the pressure just enough force to be painful. Mario is kind enough to take some pictures of me once I teach him how to use the camera and then we’re continuing along towards Yumbilla Falls, the biggest attraction of them all.
We come to a viewpoint rather suddenly. Below is Yumbilla’s bottom tier and a lovely pool for swimming, sadly there’s been too much rain and the path down is deemed to treachorous by Mario, though he says in six months they hope to have stairs or same type built down there, where a cave extends behind the falls. If there weren’t so many waterfalls around I might object and try to make it down there, instead my head looks up and I focus on the true majesty of this natural wonder. Water spills down from the almost above the clouds, pouring down over the green and brown rock towards a small pool. Yumbilla is magnificent, and like all falls of this nature with less water and more height, pictures just can’t capture it.
From this view point we head up further towards the base of the waterfalls biggest drop. Better views and soon I’m taking off my shirt again and working on climbing across some incredibly slippery rocks towards the falls, go pro on my head. Sadly I’ve forgotten how the battery drains even with it off and so only a 10 second video is taken and It will be uploaded when I get the chance.
I manage to make it into the madness, though sadly the epi-center is not reachable without equipment and I’m left in the whipping mist of this giant, unable to get under the main falls but getting close enough to feel apart of it. We take some pictures and then just stand in the sheer majesty of this waterfall, the tallest I’ve ever seen, and certainly among the most impressive. The rush of water and mist filled air is enough to take your breath away.
Mario seems impressed when I return and seems glad to let me enter that first on the trail waterfall when we pass it on the way back. Again he takes a photo or two of me and then we head back up along the path. My leg is starting to swell up and ache, damn blood clot, but I couldn’t be happier.
As we near the end of the trail we encounter the Chilean couple and their guide, who mention they walked to Pabellon Cascada first. I grit my teeth and ask Mario how much further it is. He tells me just about 20 minutes each way from the Tuk Tuk though it’s harder walking. I’m pretty damn tired, but I can’t say no to good waterfall so as we return the road we keep right on walking past the tuk tuks, going right this time down a mostly dry river bed and then through a makeshift gate made of logs and onto private property. Mario explains to me that while were allowed to pass through, no improvements can be made on the trail, which only gets narrower and more difficult as we approach the falls.
After maybe 25 minutes we stumble out into the clearing of this truly wonderful and unique Cascade. I can only imagine what it looks like after a rainstorm as it’s been a few dry days after many of rain in the region. Still these falls, spread out over wide tan cliffs are truly something to behold, Tranquil and wild all at once. I climb right in, finding a strange looking from on my way before getting into the falls again, revelling in the wonderful feeling of cold water cascading down over me. I swear there’s nothing better and it definitely helps me deal with the fact that I’ve left Ecuador.
The afternoon slipping away we head back to the tuk tuk together and head back down to Cuispes. I’m quickly falling in love with this place and driving by a young girl who pretends to shot me with a makeshift bow and arrow and giggles with delight as I play along only seals it. Cuispes is awesome, and I hope one day I can come back here in better shape able to do all the walks possible in this vastly under touristed region of northern Peru. If you get a chance to come here, just do it, it’s lovely. Want to know how to? Check out my post from Ecuador to Peru here, or you can catch a bus from Chiclayo on the coast of Peru to Pedro Ruiz and take a moto taxi to Cuispes.
I enjoy a nice dinner at the Posada with my new Chilean friends and then spend the night gazing up at the stars and getting back into writing my next novel. The next day sees me back at Pabellon Falls on my own this time, enjoying the serene setting and making it a perfect writing nook. I then enjoy the walk back down into town, greeted warmly by each farmer I pass. Cuispes, I hope I find my way back to you.
