Gocta Falls in Northern Peru

February 16th 2015

I’m exhausted when my alarm sounds and I slide my thumb across the shattered I-pod screen bringing silence back to the dorm. I climb out quickly and drag my bags down to reception to store them and by 9:30 (much later than I’d intended) and deciding I have to go anyway, despite fatigue and lateness, to see how much of the trek to Gocta falls I can manage before Manchester United’s three oclock game. I’m alone today Olivia and Elin needing a day to explore Chachapoyas and not being up for a major hike.

I head quickly to the bus station and find one of the desks running minibus’ back to pedro Ruiz, an area I so enjoyed before coming to Chachapoyas, and wait about 15 minutes before it’s full and ready to go. I have to pay the full fair (about 8 soles even though I’m only going about 60 percent of the way.

We zoom out of the city along the main road which is anything but safe, constant signs of landslides abounding, one so bad just before the falls that there’s barely space on the unpaved shoulder to creep past the huge pile of stones on pavement. Scary stuff. It’s a good thing I’m paying attention as despite me telling him clearly where i’m getting off he zooms past the Gocta signs and I walk back about 10 minutes only to find there’s no moto taxi’s waiting. I’d been told there would be but I’m not too worried and take a few minutes to admire a stunning set of falls across from the highway, 5 tiers tumble down in a ribbon towards the river below. Then it’s talking time.

I find two men and a woman working in a small field near their house and ask if they know anything. Since i’m in south america it’s not enough for them to say no, and one of them puts down his shovel and starts calling all his friends to see if they know where a tuk tuk might be. 10 minutes later and more observation of the waterfall as well as some caged parakeets later a tuk tuk pulls up and for 10 soles I’m on my way up to the town closest to Gocta falls.

This set of cascades was once considered the 3rd highest in the world at 770 meters but have now fallen to somewhere around 15 as more and more are officially measured. They’re not quite as tall as Yumbilla falls, but they certainly have a little more water and are only divided into two segments, making them at least equally impressive.

As we climb up through the forests more and more narrow ribbons fall from a table like mountain, making me wish I’d had the time to walk up the whole way, even despite the steep climb. We pull into town and my driver lets me off where the road is blocked and the ticket office to Gocta is located. I pay my fare and go into the ticket office pleased to get half off entrance (5 soles instead of 10) with my student I.D.

I’d been told a local guide is mandatory but when I explain to the ladies at the ticket office that I won’t be walking all the way this time around they agree that I can go alone which is much better for me as it lets me set my own pace.

Flashing my ticket I head up through the edges of town sticking straight ahead until I reach the trail head, descending first and getting closer and closer to the falls.

The path is well maintained and even as I walk I meet several groups of young locals working on improving the path. Butterfly’s flutter around me as I crest the first hill and marvel at the majesty of Gocta falls.

The original plan was to stop there but I can’t keep from continuing, but not before looking back the way I’ve come and feeling my jaw drop at the stunning landscapes behind me. The andes really have to be my favourite mountains so far, and I know the alps, the rockies, and the himalayas.

I eventually continue on and the pattern of setting an end point and carrying on starts to grow repetitive as the rush of the falls draws me onwards despite a sweat drenched brow. Gocta’s not quite as far from the beaten path as Yumbilla falls, but I only meet 3 tourists on the whole walk of several hours.

Finally my time runs out and I force myself to turn around after a few more long moments a little more than halfway to Gocta. I suppose it’s just another reason to return to this region of Peru after my time in Chile.

On the way back the sun shines brighter and I find myself wishing I’d planned to walk this much as I’m without water. The though quickly flees from my mind as I see massive piles of cow dung all over the path in front of me. I look closer and closer, astounded to see countless brightly coloured butterflies feeding on the dung. Ah the beauty of nature!

I glance at my Ipod and hurry along growing more and more parched. I’m relieved when I reach the top of the hill closest to town and find some kids offering juice and water for sale. I buy a cup as their grandmother grins and encourages them to serve me with a smile. The cane sugar juice is perfection and I make the last of the walk back to town easily enough, glancing back over my shoulder at the falls almost constantly.

I reach the town and am dismayed to find there’s nary a moto-taxi in sight. I ask a shop keeper and buy another drink, annoyed when he tells me there won’t be any tuk tuks for at least another hour. Wasting no time I hurry down the road out of town half walking half running, but still stopping to snap a few photos of both Gocta and the other falls in the distance. I’m just beginning to accept I’ll miss the first half of the game, and my plans to rendezvous with my Swedish friends, when a car pulls up behind me and the friendly man behind the wheel agrees to drive me down to the main road for 3 soles. A definite bargain.

My good luck continues as not 5 minutes after arriving on the main road a minibus bound for Chachapoyas pulls up and has a spare seat for me, letting me down in Chachapoyas station for 8 soles at 2:45.

I hurry back to Chachapoyas backpackers to watch the game on T.V. and find out that not only is the game not on, but that I’ve just missed Olivia and Elin who came looking for me. I ask where the best wifi is in town, (It’s spotty in northern Peru so far) and then I’m off to cafe fusions. (A great spot with amazing Apple pie)

Elin and Olivia meet me before long and even though United lose I enjoy my afternoon before heading back to the other hostel in town Adventura Backpackers where my friends are staying, just to see the hostel cat who had kittens the very same day. They are tiny and cute and I’m smiling by the time I head back through Chachapoyas main square.