September 26th 2015

The five of us, Sara,  Thea, Nico, Lillians and me are all up early and walking down one of Samaipata’s main street to the tourist agency where we have booked our trip to Los Volcanes region of Amboro National Park (160 Bolivianos Each).  for those wondering there’s actually no volcanoes here, but the locals claim the mountains look like volcanoes, and truth be told they’re not far off.

Outside the agency we meet the one person whose joined us on our trip to lower the cost, a friendly older german lady, who we make small talk with as we wait for the agency to open around 8:30 am.  They are more or less on time and soon we’re meeting our driver who Sara recalls as Victor who chats away to us in the crowded 8 person car.  He amkes a quick stop at a corner store at the edge of town to pick up some “Bolivian Redbull”  A giant bag of coca leaves, which we quickly learn he is very addicted to.

Victor’s english has amused me pretty thoroughly by the time we turn off the main road to Santa cruz, most of it is saying spanish words in an english accent with a few actual english words tossed in.

As we turn off the main road and start ascending a narrow dirt road our guide suddenly has the driver stop the car and points out a huge toucan not far behind us, perched in the trees.  Sadly My camera is in the trunk and by the time I get it out the majestic bird has taken flight.  Toucans might just be the coolest birds I’ve ever seen back in the Ecuadorian Amazon at Guacamayo lodge in Cuyabeno National Park.

We pile back into the car and continue up the rough road another 15 minutes as mists gather around us. We’ve been warned about the extreme heat here, but as we climb out of the car at the end of the road it’s the opposite problem and is actually decently chilly.  The mist makes seeing much in the distance difficult but it does add a sense of mystery to the cloud forest we’re about to enter.

We look around utterly baffled by the parking lot we’re climbing out of.  Before us is a 4 or 5 star resort, which seems completely out of place at the end of such a rough dirt road, but it is impressive and they allow us to use their bathrooms as we pay our National Park entrance Fees (10 Bolivianos).  While the others use the bathroom I explore a bit of the resort and find out the prices which are crazy for Bolivia, though the place doesn’t look very bolivia, at around 170 dollars per night including a round of golf.

Everyone refreshed and ready to start our hike, Victor leads us out from the hotel and around the little laguna, though we don’t get very far before meeting some interesting birds.

The walk progresses slowly as we walk through the wet and misty plains before finally getting into the actual forest and leaving the main path behind, climbing up through the thick greenery as our guide points out various poisonous plants and scary looking spiders.  Eventually we come to a low hanging vine giving those brave enough the chance to do their best Tarzan impression.

We climb up and out of the thick foliage to some of the foothills of the Volcanes mountains, and the mists eventually do begin to clear, though all too slowly for my tastes, still obscuring what I’ve been told is a stunning vista.

As we continue to climb, my breath growing to ragged to keep talking to the fascinating people in our group, the mists clear further, just in time as we reach the first real viewpoint of the Volcanes range.  It’s hard to describe the beauty of the countless pillars of rock heavily dusted with deep green plant life laying out on the horizon before us.  Already the days been worth it for me.

For the record, Sara freaked out when I sat down on the rock above, but while I used to be terrified of heights, travelling has pushed that and many other fears from my mind.  Just another benefit of hitting the road, so if you have a chance, do it!

We continue up a winding minorly muddy trail and spot a few cows ahead, who seem annoyed at having to continue up the mountain with us or clear the trail.  Here perched above the cloud forest we see or hear countless beautiful flowering trees, incredible mountains, countless different bird calls which Victor identifies for us.

Eventually we crest the final rise to the most impressive mirador yet, another huge inviting boulder for us to climb out onto looking out at the stunning and seemingly endless range of mountains before us, and also providing a view for those brave enough to look down of the massive valley below and the brown red river winding through it below us.  That’s our next stop.

As we start a steep descent, Thea and I end up talking about nuclear weapons, a subject she is passionate about and I am starting to be.  If you look at some of the statistics it really is absurd they still legally exist.  Anyone looking to read on the subject I’m told should read Command and Control by Eric Schlosser, a book I’m just starting to delve into.

The conversation makes what might have otherwise been a difficult walk down for the knees pass quickly and enjoyably, as vultures appropriately circle all above us, just waiting for that first nuke to be launched.  Our only pause in conversation comes as Thea tries to feed a cow who pretends not to be interested in her offering.

We eventually reach the bottom of the valley and that muddy red river we’ve scene from above and we are instantly greeted by more cows and even more birds, not just the ones in the photos but also a pair of scarlet macaws across the river who frustratingly take flight before I can get them in frame.

We walk along the riverbank through the thick and sticky red mud (a month on our shoes are still fringed with the colour)  crossing the not insignificant stream several times and making me nervous for the electronics I’ve chosen to bring along.  Some crossings we hop from stone to stone, others are a little trickier.

Eventually our guide signals it’s time for a rest after maybe 4 hours of walking, something I’m immensely grateful for, not because I’m tired, but because it means it’s finally time for a swim. Down in the valley mostly sheltered from the wind, the temperature has grown sweltering and the muddy red river looks more inviting than any crystal clear pool.  A few our hesitant but our collective enthusiasm eventually sees everyone in the water below a small set of rapids you can ride down.  We also do some small cliff jumping and relish in the crisp coolness the water provides.  For me this stop couldn’t have gone on too long.

Eventually we enjoy a few snacks before packing up our bags again and continuing to follow the river back towards the road where our driver will be waiting. the trail isn’t a circuit and is rather shaped more like a horseshoe, thus explaining the need for a separate guide and driver.  After a few more tricky crossings of the river we begin our ascent to the road but not before turning around and admiring one more stunning vista of the valley and surrounding Volcanes mountains, which, once again, hold no volcanoes.

We settle in for the 90 minute or so drive back to town and chat about the incredible day. For anyone visiting Samaipata or Santa Cruz make sure you don’t miss Los Volcanes section of Amboro National Park where in just one day you can wander through countless different types of ecosystems. And hey, if you have the budget for it, think about staying in Laguna Volcan Golf and Eco Resort. It looked pretty damn luxurious.

Back at Andorina hostel in Samiapata I spend a little time getting to know the hostel’s cat before we all head out for a pizza dinner, making the Italian Nico, very happy.