Written on November 13th 2015 at Casa Blanca Hostel  in Potosi Bolivia

Chile,  a country very dear to my heart.  When I first entered on a 40 hour journey from Arequipa to Santiago to meet my father as well as my brother and his girlfriend I told myself it’s time to start moving faster and you can only spend a month and a half here.  About 4 months later I finally left, though I’ll be visiting select southern places again while exploring Argentina in the new year.  what can I say about the country that kept me longer than any other so far?  It’s incredible, varied and vibrant, with something for everyone.  You like deserts and otherworldly landscapes?  Chile has you covered.  Prefer hiking in some of the world’s most impressive mountains?  Chile has them in spades.  Prefer beautiful beaches and tons of sea creatures?  Not hard to find. Volcanoes, waterfalls and incredible mountain lakes?  Of course.  One of the world’s most remote islands full of mysterious history and a intoxicating blend of Polynesian and South america culture just a plane ride away?  You betcha. Modern and massive cities full of world class museums?  Sure, why not.  Chile is famous for being a lot more expensive than the north of South America, and while some things do cost more, they are worth it, and at the same time it’s still possible to fall in love with Chile on a Shoestring Budget.  Here are al of my favourite places in Chile after 4 months travelling through the country, I feel like I can give you some good advice on where to go.

Honourable Mentions:

Valparaiso: Street Art and Great Night Life

Valparaiso is a backpacker favourite and if you’re looking for a place to party, or kick back and enjoy live music and good seafood. As Chile’s biggest port the harbour is also worth a wander, and the cities countless hills would be a nuisance save for the dozens of incredible elevators in the historic and colourful old town.  Pair all this with the incredible street art and lots of sea lions and sea birds and you have a great place to spend a weekend.  Just be careful coming home late at night, as there is a fair amount of crime in this big city.  I stayed at Casa Verde Limon and Hostal Voyage and had a good time at both, the first is a little pricier, the second a little more social party backpacker scene.  Read more about Valparaiso here and here.

Pichilemu: Surfing and Sunsets

Pichilemu is a little hippy town just 4 hours South of Santiago, if you’re a surfer or want to learn it should shoot way up this list, but I’m not. Still the laid back vibes, amazing coastal cliffs, and endless beaches make this place a great place to spend a few days relaxing. I recommend staying at Sirena Insolente outside of town, it’s cozy and social and the bonfires at night can’t be missed.  Read about it here.

Elqui Valley: Astronomy Hiking and Pisco

The Elqui Valley, just inland from La Serena, should shoot up your personal list if you’re a fan of Pisco, Peru and Chile’s most famous Liqueur.  The same can be said if your an astronomer or just interested in the sky, it’s among the best places in the world to observe the sky.  there’s a few small cities you can stay in, or you can take day trips from La Serena, but I recommend staying with Richard at Hostal Al Yaras  in the tiny town of Campana.  It’s a great place to stay, do some hiking, and it’s never hard to make it into the bigger towns.  and no trip is complete without a visit to Alpha Aldea private observatory.  Read about it here.

Isla de Damas:   Chile’s Poor Man’s Galapagos

This chain of Islands just offshore from Punta de Choros shouldn’t be missed for anyone who loves animals and impressive landscapes.  Do-able independently or as a day tour from La Serena you’re likely to see penguins, sea lions, sea birds and if you’re luck some dolphins too.  This excursion is well worth a day of your time especially if you’re not able to make it to the real Ecuadorian Galapagos. For how to get there and more pictures check out my blog post here.

And now….. The Top 10

10. Santiago: Cosmopolitan Living and Vibrant History 

Santiago is the most modern capital I’ve visited in South America (Granted I’ve not yet seen Buenos Aires or Brasilia)  and it’s a great big city to spend some serious time in.  My7 experience was aided by the Copa America taking place but Santiago has everything you could want in a big city, a great metro system, so much good food, terrific museums, some amazing viewpoints, and of course a fascinating and startlingly recent history.  IT’s also a great party city if that’s what you’re looking for and I had a fantastic time for my 26th birthday.  Some highlights include the Museo de Memoria y Derechos Humanos, the sprawling general cemetery, and San Cristobal hill lookout. The city is full of good hostels and I can personally recommend, Castillo Surfista,  Princesa Insolente, and Casa Roja (huge but awesome).  While there don;t miss out on La Fuente Alemana featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, and New Horizon for a cheap tasty and very filling Indian Lunch (8 CAD gets you a curry, chapati, salad, rice, and a drink).  Looking for more info, check out the blogs here, here, here , here and here.

 

9. Chiloe Island:  Traditional Living and Penguin Filled Coves

Chiloe is the second largest island in Chile and a little like Horcon above, it is largely a throwback to traditional Chilean life. Weather is fickle down here but when you get a good day this southern paradise several hours from Puerto Montt it’s special. The ferry ride alone is worth the time, make sure to get out of your car and watch the sea birds and countless sea lions play in the channel between the mainland and the island. There’s two main places to visit in Chiloe and I’m lucky enough to have spent time in both of them. First and closer to the ferry dock is Ancud, a charming little town with some great hiking in the surrounding hills and an amazing day trip available to go see some penguins and otters in one of the most picturesque bays of ever seen. (There’s also a chance of Whales from January to April). In Ancud there’s only one place to stay, Hospedaje Austral where the insanely friendly owners will hook you up with anything you need. Once you feel your finished with Ancud continue across the island to Castro, a picturesque town famous for it’s old wooden houses built on stilts. Not only is the town a pleasure to walk around but there’s great getaways to several National Parks, as well as some awesome waterfalls to visit. Chiloe certainly doesn’t lack for activities, combine it with friendly locals, fascinating culture, and incredible landscapes, and it’s a part of Chile you shouldn’t miss.  Read about my adventures in Chiloe here, here and here.

 

8. Horcon: Fisherman and Beaches

Horcon is a tiny little fishing town 4 or 5 hours north of Santiago. In the summer its hippy central and I’d imagine crowded it would be less special, however come shoulder season (October November and March onwards) the place empties out leaving a little traditional Chilean paradise. Surrounded by beautiful beaches, with chilly but swimmable water, the town is beyond welcoming and serves up some of the best empanadas I’ve ever had at a restaurant with a name something like the spider’s bite. However the coolest part of town is watching the local catch get brought in each morning, countless ships and sea birds warming the beach, draft horses pulling the boats out of the water. Most accommodation here comes in the form of vacation houses or flats which can be had for cheap upon arrival outside of high season, get one with a kitchen, buy some fresh fish and seafood and cook yourselves up a tasty feast. Read about Horcon here.

 

7. Isla Magdalena Penguin Colony

Isla Magdelena is penguin paradise, and I didn’t even go during the height of it. If you’re flying to the south to get to number 2 and 3 on this list then you’ll be flying into Punta Arenas, a town with not to much going on, but it’s definitely worth spending a night or two and taking a day trip to this island at the end of the world. At it’s height in December and January there are close to 140,000 penguins on the island, and the public ferry, which runs until late march, make it somewhat affordable for Patagonia at 35,000 CLP (70 CAD) round trip. You can take private trips after this date sometimes but by the end of march most of the penguins are gone, we happened to arrive on the last day of the ferry, perfect timing. Walking around the island is an incredible experience and interacting with the penguins is unavoidable, but the boat ride, scenery, and end of the world feeling add to these funny little white and black birds to make this a must do day trip in Chile. In Punta Arenas we had a great time staying at Hostal 53 Sur including a delicious pancake breakfast.

 

6. Pucon: Waterfalls and Volcanoes

Pucon, 8-10 hours south of Santiago, is packed with tourists in high season (December-February) and while It’s still worth a visit then, you’re better off exploring this mountainous adventure sport paradise during shoulder seasons. I visited in late April-early May and loved it, but wait much longer and you’ll be getting more rain than not. El Refugio hostel makes a cheap and cozy home base while you explore all that Pucon has to offer, which is waterfalls in spades, incredible mountains lakes, another stunning volcano which erupted back in march and was still churning and bubbling each night when I was there.   Beyond that, Pucon is Chile’s adventure sport capital, with mountain climbing, tons of rafting and rafting swimming hybrids, and many other things. Or if you just want a quiet day in town, go for a kayak on the beautiful lake marveling up at Volcan Villarica, swim on the beach if you don’t mind chilly water, and end every day with the best burger in South America at Latitude 39. (try the grand prix and the carrot cake). Here’s the entries from my favourite activities around Pucon, but trust me when I say there’s so much more to do.  Check out more about Pucon here, here, here, and here.

 

5. Puerto Varas: Vincente Morales National Park

Puerto Varas was my brother’s number one pick to visit with my father, and all because of the aforementioned national park, it was a dandy. The little German colonial town of Puerto Varas, just a half hour local bus ride from Puerto Montt is beautiful in every sense of the word. Set on a stunning blue Andean lake, framed by a series of volcanoes, one almost perfect snow capped one looking over all the others, just walking through town and down by the lake side is a joy. That said the real magic comes when you leave the town behind and head to Saltos de Petrohue and Lago Todo Los Santos. Gushing strangely covered waterfalls pour over crazy volcanic rock formations, the volcano an ever present, just be sure to get there as early as possible, as tour buses and cruise ship crowds from Puerto Montt crowd this natural wonder most of the day, making it less incredible. Continuing to the lake go for a swim, and don’t miss out on a scenic boat ride around the lake. A clear day for both these activities makes all the difference. There’s also a more off the beaten track option in the form of a 40 meter waterfall that no one ever goes to, not to mention lots of tasty food all over town, and seasonal white water rafting options, making Puerto Varas an un-missable gem. While there I recommend Margouya Patagonia hostel, a little ways up the hill from the lake, but cheap clean, comfy and social.  Read about my adventures in Puerto Varas here and here.

 

4. San Pedro De Atacama and The Day Tours Around It

The Atacama desert is how almost how I imagine the moon, or mars. It’s stunning, it’s strange and it’s vast. There is so much to explore here and so many different tours on offer, not to mention the option to go into southwestern Bolivia and see my number 1 site in Bolivia and top 10 in South America the Uyuni Salt Falts. San Pedro is a tiny desert town designed for tourism, and as such it can be frustrating from time to time, but the scenery and tours are worth it. The worlds driest desert in the world is ringed by mountains and dotted with incredible rock formations, not to mention that as I write this, sadly distant from San Pedro, it’s now covered in bright followers, something that happens once every 5 to 7 years. Some of my favourites in the area are the easily accessible and cheap Moon and Death Valley, the otherworldly Salar de Tara tour, and my personal favourite tour, Piedras Rojas and Lagunas Altiplanicas. That said there’s lots more to do around here, and if you have enough people renting a car and exploring on your own would be an excellent option. As long as you don’t mind slightly crowded dorms (ask for the 4 bed near reception) I recommend staying at Backpackers San Pedro, a great laid back hostel on the edge of town with friendly staff and nice facilities. Oh and for you Westerners missing proper pastries be sure to check out La Franchuteria, but go early they sell out of the good stuff (like chocolate croissants) quickly.  Read more about San Pedro here, here and here.

 

3. Bernardo O’higgins National Park – Serrano Glacier

Okay so the top two have been pretty obvious and well known all around the world, this ones a little more off the beaten path, though unfortunately, like most things in chilly, it’s not exactly cheap. Bernardo O’Higgins park is another gem of Chilean Patagonia, also accessed from Puerto Natales. Sadly most of the park isn’t all that accessible to your everyday tourist needing a helicopter to reach a lot of is undeniably an obstacle. Still the small sliver that is accessible is utterly amazing and one of the most awe inspiring places I have ever seen. You can do this as a one day trip from Puerto Natales on a boat like we did, or pair it with an adventure in Torres Del Paine National Park, kayaking to the spectacular Serrano glacier, and joining the day trips boat back. If I could do it all again, I’d do this. While the Serrano Glacier is undoubtedly the highlight of the day. (Try swimming with the icebergs if you’re brave) there is so much more to see on the way there, tons of other towering glaciers, amazing Fjords, beautiful waterfalls, and lots of incredible animals, not to mention one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. If you make it all the way down to Puerto Natales don’t let the price tag make you skip this slightly less known natural wonderland. Check out my adventures in Bernardo O’Higgins here.

 

2. Torres Del Paine National Park

Patagonia, world renowned trekking capital of the world, nestled down in the southern reaches of Chile and Argentina, it’s a region of the world that will see me come back before too long. Torres Del Paine National park just outside of Puerto Natales Chile, is undoubtedly one of Patagonia’s highlights. From the incredible mountain towers that give the park it’s name, to countless lakes and glaciers dotted throughout the park this place is an outdoorsman’s dream. Add that to the fact that you can trek with an empty bottle of water and fill it up from any one of the countless streams and you’ve got a winner. This far south weather can be fickle so the park is only Accessible from October to the end of April ish, but it’s worth every penny and minute it takes to get down here. Weather you’re doing the world famous 5 day W circuit, the lesser trodden 10 day full circuit, or just a series of day walks this place will not disappoint. I’ll be visiting again in the new year and trying to see a little more of the park. You should join me! Just in case you’re still hesitant to come so far south check out my full entries on this World wonder national park, here, here, here, here and here. When you go I highly recommend staying at Yagan House Hostel in Puerto Natales to organize your trip. They will help you with anything you might need. Read more about my time in and around the park here, here, here, here, and here.

 

1. Easter Island: Just Everything on This Remote Paradise.

It hurts me to think that when I came to South America I’d settled on not going to Easter Island. Big heads on an Island? What’s the big deal right? Wrong. Don’t make the mistake I almost did that only a cheap last minute round trip flight (300 USD) got me there and thank god It did. Easter island is a perfect blend of South America and Polynesia and is an incredible place to visit. And, contrary to popular belief, it can be done on something resembling a budget. Camping, hitch hiking and empanadas are the key to this, but I actually spent less (not including flight) on a daily basis in Easter island than I did in the rest of Chile.   The heads are beyond amazing and worth the visit on their own but Easter island is more than this, Superbly clear waters, Amazing coastal Cliffs, stunning white sand beaches, ancient remnants of volcanoes, fascinating history, and some of the friendliest people in the world make up the most significant reasons not to miss out on this tiny remote paradise. Not convinced, check out my blogs and you will be!  I camped at Camping Tipanie.  Read about my adventure’s in Easter Island here, here, here, here, here, here, and here.