Iguazu Falls Argentina Days 2 and 3
Date of Entry: December 4th and 5th
Date of Writing: December 10th 2015 Hostel Park Iguazu, Puerto Iguazu Argentina.
I went back, because of course I did and if you follow each entry of this blog you’ll probably be almost sick of Iguazu by the time I leave, but I’m blessed with enough time to return to what may well be my single favourite place in the world that I’ve seen so far. If you’re in South America and have any way of getting to Iguazu, don’t wait, just go, it’s amazing.
After a few days chilling in town due to heavy rain and needing to arrange my Brazilian Visa (post on how coming soon) I get the public bus from the bus terminal in Puerto Iguazu again (100 pesos return departures every 20 minutes from 7:20 until after park closing) and relish the thirty minute ride being over, eager to see the spectacle of the falls again.
I follow the same pattern as my first day heading immediately through the park, by passing the slower tourist train from the entrance to Estacion los Cataratas and taking the 10 minute long leisurely walk through the green trail, before following the path down to the lower and trail and coming to the first falls. I’m shocked to see that the water levels are even higher, the spray crossing the first lower bridge soaking all who pass.
After two straight days of pouring rain the river levels are absurdly high and the energy of the place is enhanced even more. Though the skies are still clouded and rain is in and out, it hardly matters. I’m at waterfalls, I’m going to do my best to get wet, and more rain means more water plummeting over the countless cliffs of Iguazu.
I continue along the lower trail getting to the first real viewpoint of the main Argentinean falls. (You read that right, there’s a hole other huge side of the falls you don’t even see from the Argentinean side) and marvel at the roar, even from a distance it is all encompassing.
Last time I was here I spotted an iguana below the look out point, this time though the animals are in the trees and I learn for the first time that coati’s climb trees with grace and ease.
Eventually I continue along the trail knowing just how much there is to see here on the Argentinean side and wanting to leave a good chunk of time to spend at the devil’s throat, in my opinion the biggest highlight on this side of the falls. But I can’t help but stop and spend some time at each viewpoint I pass, snapping photos from the various angles below.
I head out again to the main point under the waterfalls above, again ducking under the safety ribbon which has been moved back due to the higher water levels, and head out into the madness, spray swirling violently in the are all around, sadly I forgot to charge my go pro and there’s no way my standard camera would survive there. After spending a long time lost in the madness of the falls and fighting the temptation to jump into the rush, I emerge, drenched to the bone and head down what’s left of the lower trail passing Salto Chico and Saltos dos hermanos before emerging on the main pathway and heading up to the ritzy Sheraton hotel in the park investigating cost and hotel Policies.
Sadly in the Sheraton I learn that you are not allowed on the trails at night so the rooms (ranging from 200-300 USD per night not considering suites) only allow you to get an early start on the park. It is worth noting that the trails aren’t bolted shut and if your comfortable with the risk of being caught by a park ranger night time access would likely be possible. As I leave the Sheraton behind I go to check out the pool before heading towards the Devil’s throat train, unable to wait to go back to this highlight and see it with even more water than before. I’m lucky, my days of visiting there’s been limited rain, but apparently the region has been experience historic levels of rainfall.
The train to the devil’s throat leaves from the Cataratas station every half hour, the last train going there leaves at 4:10 so make sure not to miss it. I’m lucky because the trail has only just been reopened after being shut all of the day before and the entire morning of today, meaning the walkway crossing a huge section of the river a few hundred meters upstream from the falls is barely above the water level. It’s incredible.
I use a little trick I picked up last time walking to the far end of the train and boarding the last car. The roughly 10 minute ride passes slowly thanks to the anticipation fo coming back to the devil’s throat but when it pulls up to the platform i’m the first one off and walking very quickly to the boardwalk. I’m the first there and pushing myself I manage to make quite a gap between me and the next person, giving me more time to the devil’s throat with less people. Arriving is breath taking even for the second time, and I suspect the effect for me would remain the same no matter how many times I visit.
I get quickly lost in the rushing water and end up spending about three hours just marvelling at this wonder of nature and finally seeing the shape of the falls which gives them their name. It’s hard to describe this place so my best advice is find a way to get there, and the good news the entire park is wheelchair accessible, even down to some of the buses going to the park. It’s an impressive accomplishment, and Argentina should be proud. It makes me smile a lot to see so many very old people marvelling at this wonder. I’m impressed by their energy and commitment to see the world, and the wonder in their eyes. I hope I’m still adventuring at that age.
Eventually I head back towards the station only to see the train pulling away, rather than wait for half an hour I take the roughly 20 minute walk alongside the tracks past countless butterflies with plenty of interesting river views. And if the sun comes out seeing Iguanas, turtles and other things is quite common. I beat the next train by more than a few minutes and head back through the forested path towards the upper trail.
The upper trail is equally beautiful and simple enough as a long boardwalk leads you past a series of viewpoints out over the Argentinean side of the falls. It’s the best panoramic view you’ll get from Argentina and also an amazing place to sit and write, or people watch, or meditate as long as you don’t mind a crowd and lots of photos being taken.
The park closes at 6 So I head back from the upper trail just after 5 walking back to the train station and then following the green trail back to the park entrance where I stop by cash 5 to revalidate my ticket for half price admission tomorrow, and since it’s Saturday then, I’min for a rushed visit, meaning I catch the first bus to the park, leaving Puerto Iguazu at 7:20 am and arriving 5 minutes before the park opens, just long enough to head over to cash 5 and claim my discounted ticket before joining the line of about 50 people waiting for admission.
This next part is important, people walk slowly here, so with a little effort, as well as using the train system to your advantage by not using it, you can have a significant chunk of time at the park all but alone, (except for Sheraton guests who are few and far between, especially on the upper trail. Basically from the park entrance walk quickly (or if your fit treat it as an early morning jog) everyone ambles towards the central station to take the train to estacion de cataratas, but by cutting off to your right and following the 5 minute long (when rushing) green trail you can get to estacion cataratas long before the first train. Motor your way down to your choice of trails, (I recommend upper, though this first time I did lower) and boom your off and all but alone in this natural paradise.
I’m thrilled and since I have to be leaving by just after 11 I move quickly along the trail stopping long enough to grab a few photos and then spending another good chunk of time alone past the safety ribbon at the last main stop of the trail, so tempted to climb over the railing and see how close I can get until three Chinese Sheraton guests show up, seeming to enjoy my presence out there in the crazy tempest of the falls. They’d probably worry If I climbed over the actual guard rail, and might even report me. Still it’s tempting. I also find a few baby coati’s with their mum and snap some pictures as best I can.
As I reach the end of the trail I spot a bird I’ve not seen before with a huge tail brightly coloured, and beautiful, singing in the trees. Sadly I manage only a quick out of focus photo before it flies away.
The lower trail done I head quickly to the beginning of the upper trail, finding the park still largely empty since most people don’t seem to arrive until around 10. I head out to all the viewpoints and then decide to head back the way I’ve come rather than complete the loop which leads you through comparatively boring riverside up from the falls. Of course going backward like this only works if it’s quite early or very late, otherwise you clog up the boardwalks and are just generally a jerk.
the upper trail done I decide to gamble and catch the next train to the devil’s throat knowing I’ll likely miss the beginning of the united game but strangely okay with that. Again I go to the last car and am the first of the train speed walking my way out to the madness of the most impressive place I’ve ever been and feeling instantly glee full as I reach the incredible collection of cascades laid out before me. It’s just a crazy place and I spend almost an hour there before practically running back, turning the 15-20 minute walk into a 5 minute one, arriving just in time to catch the train, continuing back along the green trail to the entrance and grabbing the next bus back to town in time to catch the second have and glad to know I’ll be back at the falls lots more time, still my plan for the next day is to head to the Brazilian side of the falls, to fully appreciate the beauty of this waterfall wonderland.
