Date of Entry: March 11th 2016
Date of Writing: April 28th 2016, Art Factory Hostel Palermo, Buenos Aires Argentina.
Buses in Argentina are expensive. There’s no two ways about it. Even in Chile where buses are usually much cheaper this far south the differences are much smaller. It’s frustrating because I’m in love with argentina, but at the time of writing I’ve taken 6 internal flights which aren’t cheap either and I know the transport prices will cause me to miss some things I’d otherwise love to have seen. For those on a budget hitchhiking is regularly an option throughout most of Argentina (though never entirely safe of course) but it’s not something I love doing a lot of. There are three companies that run buses from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas and there’s at least one leaving early every morning, the day I’m going happens to be the cheapest one but at 800 ARS (72 CAD) it’s far from cheap for the roughly 12 hour journey on a very average bus. Of course the plus side is, I know there’s a ferry rides and I love ferry’s. I may even have a penguin based ferry dance I first learned in KCVI drama club back in high school that I perform on every ferry I go on. Okay… there’s no may about it.
The bus passes as you would expect it to and the border crossing is very simple, but when we get to the ferry terminal to catch the boat off of tierra del fuego and over towards Punta Arenas we find a huge line of trucks cars and everything else. I speak the most spanish of the gringos on the bus and so find out that the ferry service has been suspended due to high winds. The driver doesn’t know whether it will resume in minutes, hours or days, but there’s nothing to do but wait. Luckily despite huge gusts of wind it’s downright beautiful outside and waiting while wandering along a stunning windswept beach certainly sounds better than waiting in a cramped bus.
As the wind picks up even further walking on the beach becomes something of a painful business in shorts as the wind picks up sand, grit and little rocks and starts whipping the sediment into my skin so I’m forced to retreat back to the street where I walk along a wall covered in interesting street art towards the actual ferry terminal.
After grabbing a barros luco (Traditional patagonian beef and cheese sandwich) at one of the little cafeterias I notice that suddenly the massive line of traffic is moving and so I run full tilt back to the bus and climb on, but sadly it’s entirely a false dawn, the line is just moving closer to the actual embarkation point for some unknown reason. That said as it works out the move is not without it’s rewards as a lone fox appears on the embarkation ramp, curious at all the people milling about, and also probably hoping for some food.
It’s fun to watch this adorable little fox scamper around but I’ll admit to being glad when after three hours or so of waiting, the ferry arrives and we start to board just as the sun is setting which basically makes the delay worth it as the ride is stunningly beautiful, as is my performance of the penguin drinking tea song.
A few hours later and we’re in Punta Arenas round 11 Pm and somehow I manage to remember the path back to one of my favourite hostels in Chile, Hostel 53 Sur/Posada Del Arturo, (5 ed dorm 12,000 CLP 24 CAD) where I am warmly welcomed by the friendly Colombian staff and get to go to sleep anticipating the delicious homemade pancake breakfast which is just a part of what makes this hostel so awesome.
7 Comments
Hi Luke,
Thank you so much for the great posts – you are truly living life to the fullest! Regarding your bus trip from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas, you mentioned there’s a bus every day. We are trying to find a bus that leaves on a Thursday in Nov/Dec, but so far, we haven’t found that information online. Would you recall the bus lines there, please? Thanks so much for the assist! Take care and safe travels.
Hi Diana,
I’m sorry to say I no longer recall the names of the companies. I’d recommend sending an email to cruz del Sur Hostel and inquiring with them as they may know better. The best I could find is this thread on thorntree with some links to companies. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/americas-south-america/chile/bus-punta-arenas-ushuaia Either way are you planning to book online now? By November/December I’d be shocked if there’s not daily service and maybe you could just book on your arrival to Ushuaia? It’s really not that hard and all three companies have offices in the centre of Ushuaia. Enjoy your trip to Patagonia, one of the world’s most impressive regions if you ask me, and I hope you continue to enjoy the blog. All the best,
Luke
Hi Luke,
Thanks for quick reply. Yes, it seems like there would be daily service during the high season, but it’s just been difficult to confirm that, even with some of those companies. So far, I’ve managed to find M, T, W, F, and Sat, but of course no Thu which is what we need. I’m hoping that when it gets closer to that time, more will become available. We could always fly to el Calafate and then bus it to TdP, but we were hoping to take that ferry over the Magellan Straight (the cool factor, you know?). Anyway, thanks so much again, and no matter which way we go, I know it will be spectacular. Take care and please continue writing!
No problem Diana, you should be able to find one. If you have the time I really do highly recommend taking a day tour from punta arenas to see the king penguins. these are amazing animals and you get two more ferry rides including a longer one over to porvenir chile, plus you get amazing landscapes exploring chilean tierra del fuego, and the penguins are really just a show stealer. The tour is a lot of time in the minibus but for me it was truly incredible. As for torres del paine you’ll love it no matter how you do it. Enjoy your trip and I’ll keep writing about mine. Im headed to africa briefly this fall which is new territory for me and I’m very excited about it. All the best on your travels,
Luke
Hey Diana! I’m looking for a bus for Thursday as well and can’t find anything I can book online. Have you been successful? Thanks 🙂
I don’t know about booking online, it can be tough so far south, but there is definitely a bus going on thursday morning. Call a hostel or travel agency in ushuaia and they might be able to book it for you.
Hi Allison,
Most of the buses aren’t on Thursday, it appears, but I did find the following website that shows service from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas on Thursdays. Look down at the bottom to the right. I sent them an email but have not heard back yet. I agree with Luke that the hostels should know, too. Hope that helps, and I’ll post if I hear back with a confirmation and/or way to reserve in advance. http://www.busesbarria.cl/tarifas.html